Reciprocating saws are designed for heavier-duty use than jigsaws, which makes them ideal for rough cutting when you need more power and less accuracy such as demolition work.
They can cut a wide range of materials including metals, wood, man-made boards, plastic and even tree branches. So if you're cutting fence posts and decking; or removing old windows, stud partitioning, metalwork, or wood that's embedded with nails, this is the type of saw to choose. Reciprocating saws are used with both hands, and their design makes it easier to cut overhead or vertically. They work with an oscillating motion, with the blade going up and down.
So for every back stroke, the blade angles downward into the cut slightly; and for every push or forward stroke it angles upward slightly. This helps you cut through materials particularly wood much faster. It does also makes a rougher cut than a straight back-and-forth cutting motion - but as reciprocating saws aren't normally used as precision tools, the finish of the cut shouldn't be an issue.
Modern reciprocating saws usually come with variable-speed motors. All you do is press the trigger a bit harder to increase the speed at which the blade oscillates backwards and forwards. This gives you plenty of control - which comes in particularly handy when you're making wide curved cuts for example, when you're moving from the side of a window cut-out to the sill on the bottom.
The disc-shaped blade of a circular saw makes professional-quality straight cuts in wood, plywood, MDF and kitchen worktops.
It can be used freehand, guided by a parallel guide fence, or it can be mounted in a saw table with the blade projecting upwards through a guarded slot. Cutting with a rotating action, circular saws are good for converting large pieces of wood and board to smaller sizes. Therefore, they come in particularly handy when you need to cut sheets of plywood, MDF doors and shelves, laminate flooring, kitchen worktops and decking. The varying models have blades of different diameters.
The larger the blade, the thicker the material you can cut with it. Look for helpful features such adjustable cutting depth, sight liner and adjustable fence guide. A vacuum cleaner attachment or dust collection bag will keep your work area clean and tidy. For more complex jobs a M itre Saw can be used to make clean and precise cross, mitre and bevel cuts in hardwoods and softwoods, plastic, alloys and nonferrous metals.
This is what your saw blade will look like when it has been trimmed. The saw blade is now treated to even filing with a 3-sided file, so that each tooth without exception receives 3 or 4 strokes of the file overall.
The process is repeated until all the teeth are the same shape and the base of the teeth is in a neat line. A crosscut saw blade after the teeth have been reshaped. Setting a saw means bending alternate teeth outwards to either side, making the cut wider than the blade, so that the latter does not jam.
The offset must be absolutely equal to both sides, or else the saw will go off course in the direction of the wider offset side. For this job you need a saw set. To avoid tooth breakage, never bend a tooth to the right that was previously bent to the left, and vice versa. The total width of the offset should be less than double the width of the blade; good crosscut saws are already set by the manufacturer to no more than 1. If you offset to more than double the blade's thickness, the wood in the centre of the cut will not be properly contacted and the saw will not work smoothly.
Dry wood needs less offset, wet wood more. The depth of the offset is also important. It should on no account be for more than half the height of the teeth; a third is preferable. The teeth of the former Mass may be regarded as knives which cut, or ought to cut the sides of the kerf smoothly at the same time that they force out or split off the intervening wood.
Many mechanics are accustomed to take their saws to a professional saw filer and setter, acknowledging their own inability to perform the operation as it ought to be done, and preferring to incur expense rather than use a badly-sharpened tool.
There is no necessity for this, and any man of ordinary intelligence and skill in the use of tools may easily acquire the simple art of saw filing and setting.
In order to do this, the following points must be observed: The teeth in cross-cut saws ought to cut both ways in traversing through the wood, and the teeth of both cross-cut and rip-saws.
The bevel on the tooth should be more acute for than for hard wood. In order to secure the same bevel on all the teeth of a cross-cut saw the file must be held at the same angle in filing each tooth, and if the saw has been previously well filed, the same number of strokes of the file will be required for ea oh tooth, provided an equable pressure is Ifthe teeth are uneven in length, their points ought to be first leveled with a flat file, and the beveling be subsequently governed by the point.
As soon as the point becomes well defined on each tooth, provided the proper bevel has been maintained throughout, the operator should proceed to the next tooth, and so on. The saw should be filed from the handle toward the point, as in no other way can a proper bevel be obtained and maintained throughout. It a cross-cut saw be found a little high in the middle, it may still work well, but in no case should it be lower in the middle than at the ends.
The feather should be taken from the sides of the teeth by a straight, flat file, or a whetstone with a plane surface, laid along the sides of the teeth, and drawn smoothly along without much pressure. The chainsaw is designed to cut tree limbs or fell entire trees with its dozens of sharp teeth that rotate around the guide bar.
Guide bars range from 14 inches long for light cutting and pruning up to 36 inches long for use by lumberjacks and can be interchangeable on some models of chainsaws. For most DIYers, a chainsaw with an to inch guide bar is sufficient. While some smaller, corded chainsaws work for trimming and pruning nearby the house, most are fuel-operated and can be taken into remote areas for harvesting firewood.
It comes with a inch guide bar, and it can be fitted with a longer inch bar if desired. Though not the cheapest model on the market, this 10 lb. Disclosure: BobVila. You agree that BobVila. All rights reserved. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY.
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